The Tunnel

Ok, I have a confession to make. Since I started this hike I have had one major fear. It was not the distance, not the tides, not the climbs, nor the wild animals. Not fording the rivers or even the long road walks. My major fear was Cape Creek Tunnel. ( I previously called this the Haceta Head Tunnel, but it’s proper name is Cape Creek Tuunel)

Built in 1931 and paired with a Roman aqueduct style bridge, designed by Conde McCullough, it was an architectural wonder. The 200 yard long tunnel exits north high on the cliff face. It is meet by the graceful reinforced concrete arched bridge taking you safely across the Cape Creek gorge near Haceta Head. So what’s the problem?

The tunnel is just two lanes wide. Two, 1931 lanes wide. The builders did not anticipate the immense RVs of the future, piloted by well meaning but unskilled retirees like myself. Add rear view mirrors jutting out on both sides at hiker head level, and you have a menacing machine. Now wedge two of these behemoths next to each other going 45 mph in opposite directions through a too small tunnel. Finally add one septuagenarian thru-hiker in that same narrow tunnel and you have an idea why I am not wild about this part of the hike.

I am so “not wild” about it that I got up at 4:30 this morning, packed up, no breakfast, and hiked the 2 miles through the forest in the dark just to be heading into this nightmare tunnel at 5:30. There was no traffic. I crossed Conde’s bridge to the tunnel entrance, pressed the button that flashes yellow lights for 30 seconds so cyclists can get through, and headed into the maw. Still no traffic. I couldn’t really run with my pack, so I sort of trotted. Two hundred yards is a long way when you know you’re going to die any second and in my mind it seemed to take forever. Still no traffic. As I cleared the other end I looked at my watch. It took right at 2 minutes to trot through. Still no traffic.

I was through! But my problems were not over. Unlike the bridge with its nice sidewalk on the north side, the south side is road and where the shoulder should be there is mostly guardrail. Sometimes you get a few inches, sometimes a foot, but never a generous place to walk. But at least you are not hemmed in by tunnel walls. A several hundred foot drop to the ocean-yes, but no walls. Still no traffic.

After a mile or so you come to Sea Lion Caves and the shoulder opens up. A pickup pulling a boat drives by headed south. It has been 15 minutes since I cleared the tunnel before this first vehicle came through. I guess it was wise to get going early.

Last night, as I was fixing dinner, I was getting really chilled. The 25 mph wind that blew me off the beach, was still going strong and the air temperature was 50. That made the wind chill 42 degrees. I realize some of you who are enduring record three digit temps right now may not have much sympathy for my plight, but I was cold. Fortunately a hot meal and putting on all my layers warmed me up prey quickly.

This morning the wind was mild and when I dropped down to Haceta Beach near Florence, I had a splendid walk along the empty sunny beach for 5 miles. There were no people until the last 1/2 mile where a road accessed the shore. I left the beach and walked east to 101 and some coffee. Then along the Highway a few more miles to the MacD’s where Nancy was to pick me up.

After I finished breakfast, she arrived and we drove the hour back to Eugene. I will be taking two days off and then return to Florence to resume the trail on Tuesday.

Happy Trails!